Friday, 29 March 2024

Winter Spine 2024 My journey to Kirk Yetholm

Where to start apart maybe where I have heard of this race. I am not to sure of the exact time 2014 or 2015. I used to run in a group and one runner call Ian Bowles was talking about this really long run/walk on the Pennine way which he was doing every year in January. It was called the Spine Race. How he described it to me seem crazy and my running journey was really at its beginning but a seed was sow in my mind for sure that day. I do remember three guys at the front battling it (Pavel, Eion, and Eugenie) It was brilliant to dot watch and since then it has been a yearly tradition to have the laptop fired up and on the tracking website. 

The Spine Race for people who aren't familiar with it, is a non stop, 268 miles race along the most iconic and demanding national trail in Britain; The Pennine Way. Beginning from Edale in Derbyshire, runners have a time limit of 168 hours to reach the elusive village of Kirk Yetholm in the Scottish Borders. 

I am well aware of the journey up to the start as Laura (my wife) ran this race three times (2 winter one, and 1 summer edition). So we left home ( Devon) straight after work on the Friday and stopped halfway for an easy stay and stop the anxiety of packing and unpacking. 

On the Saturday we were given a time window to have our kit check and get our number and the right to start the race. I managed to secure a 2pm to 4pm window which was great. Earlier it is done, the earlier I can finish the last bit and chill. It is the biggest kit list for any race I have ever done with around 30 + different items to carry and all the sub categories which come with it. That is only the mandatory kit, you might want to grab more layers or more things which will be more personal to you and your need. My pack was just under 9.5kg fully loaded. 



Full pack ready to go


Nervous? Me? Definitely!!


We stayed in a little Airbnb in Buxton, a place we already stayed last summer when Laura was running the Summer spine and it is only 25 min drive from Edale and the start of the race. I find Buxton perfect to stay before the race because if you need something, there is a lots of shops there. 


The start in the back of the pack with Geoff just ahead of me


Start Edale To CP1 Hebden Bridge 46 Miles

 The race start was on Sunday morning at 8am. Blue sky, not much wind and low temperature. Perfect conditions to go out running. Gave my wife a kiss goodbye and went in the back of the pack on the start line, I met up with Geoff Partridge who is a runner I shared many trail with which include the Arc of Attrition a couple of times.  The count came to zero and we were leaving the main carpark and going up in the hill and towards the first climb. It was mostly silence between us, a few experience runners were chatting together but I kept myself with my inner self and tried to not feel too overwhelm about the task ahead. Everyone fell in a queue climbing "Jacob Ladder". Day one is so much of a blur, everybody me included are putting decent miles on fresh legs and pushing forward. It felt a bit like the pace I would go on a 100 miles race, or I should say effort level with a 10kg pack strap to my back. We went up and down in different moorland all of it pretty hard under foot which made progress easier than if the bogs were soft, a big theme of the few days ahead to come. I covered the first 28miles without any hiccups and arrived at a cross road where a MRT (Mountain Rescue Team) had a tent up with hot drinks and biscuits on the go. The spine race allowed support if it is accessible to every athletes, so Pub, shop, Spine box, or tea room are all good, but having a family member or a friend bringing you some hot food or a piece of kit isn't allowed and a time penalty will be added to your time or for a repeat offence a possible disqualification .


 Early on picture, Sunny and warm



 4 miles later I arrived to an other cross road and a place called Nicky's Bar. It is basically a café in a container, which has hot food on the go and hot drink. I had planned to have food there but for some reasons I changed my mind and just had a cup of tea and grabbed a can of Fanta for emergency when I needed to be perked up. At this point I knew I had an other 16 miles before CP1 and some sort of reset and change of clothes. 

I ran with one of my hero Eoin Keith. He is a triple winner of this event and I knew I shouldn't be here with him but we were a few other runner with him so I only focus on me and my pace. You can only run your own race/adventure and can't match your pace especially so early on with anyone else. I ran the reminder of the few miles down to Hebden bridges and arrived there just after 8pm. There is a little there and back and I passed a few runners who were leaving the checkpoint to go back on the Pennine way. It was the first checkpoint and I didn’t have a routine sorted yet so just remembered all the advises I was given by my wife and our friend Wiebke. So I sort out all my electric kit and recharge everything I could (watch, headtorch and phone). I had a bag made for each checkpoint with dry change of kit in it, also a towel, flip flop and toiletry. Changed in fresh kit, ate some food and decided to have a quick reset and close my eyes for 40min. I think I managed to sleep 15min after taking a while to relax. I woke up realizing that my alarm should have just rang and that I had set it to the wrong time… Not a good start and really starting to show I wasn't with it when I set it, but avoided the worst by waking up on my own. The Checkpoint volunteers won’t wake you up if you sleep too long and miss your alarm, so I made sure I didn’t do that mistake again. Ate more food before I left and sort out my CP bag ready for when I make it to Hawes. Off I went after a couple of hours stopped and felt refresh ish, a slight sore right hip started but I couldn’t worry about it so I monitored the pain level and kept moving forward. 


CP1 Hebden Bridge To CP2 Hawes 62 Miles


This is the longest sections between checkpoint of the all race. 62 miles. A bit nervous about it but no choice but moving forward as quick as I could and efficiently. Left Hebden Bridge only half refreshed and the sleep made me really drowsy. Having recce none of the course apart the Cheviot a few years back, everything ahead was new and kind of exciting not knowing what was coming. 

The night is a bit of a blur to be honest , I remember leaving the checkpoint feeling warm and the weather was still dry and cold. Made sure before I left I had better pair of gloves, and better leggings to face the cold of the night. 

Ran with few people passing each other on and off. Talked a bit with #250, he had some super duper lasportiva waterproof shoes which seem to give him grief with the thicker socks. Has many people before him, he was moving much better than me and I let him go ahead in the night. Every runners got a red light on their packs and with the great visibility conditions we had you could see runners a fair way away. I arrived in Lotherdale Tri club before 4 am. It is an unofficial, Official mid checkpoint.... not really sure to be honest. I know we were only allowed to stay here for 30min. There was food and hot drinks available and it arrived on my journey at the right point. I wasn't feeling great, my tummy wasn't playing ball and I felt a bit nauseous. We were a few in their double tents maybe 10 of us or so, and all the nice comfy chairs were taken. Maybe for the best, so I wouldn't stay there long. Had a veggie mushroom and egg sandwich and a coffee. Wasn't going down well but was well aware of energy levels pretty low at that point so made sure it went in and was on my way, hoping my stomach wouldn't reject everything back. 

A steady hard walk was on for now, my tummy became pretty crampy and I wasn't feeling great. I decided to stop and have a nap somewhere. So the new game was to find a dry ish surface, kind of sheltered to lie down for some time, I was up to stop 30mim to try to reset my stomach. The first spot I find was a bin store and at 5.30 in the morning I thought no one would mind but I didn't dare to lie in it. The second spot was a bench on the side of the trail. I put down my bag, set up an alarm for 20min, send a message to HQ to let them know I was stopping and lie on this really narrow bench. 10 min passed and I woke up freezing, and not feeling that great to be honest. The hard task of what was still there to achieve brought doubt in me. I caught up with three runners who pass while I was getting ready to leave my bench and tag along quietly behind. We arrived into a farm yard and they had a honesty little boxes and shop, can of soda, chocolate bars and cold Costa coffee cans. I bought a fanta and a costa coffee. Down the coffee to help me wake up but it was freezing cold and gave me a brain freeze. The three runners were gone while I was faffing and felt really lonely at that point, so I called my wife Laura. A few tears came down my face when she picked up and reassure me. I was on a proper low and only someone as close as her would understand what I was going through. She had been there, on the same trail struggling herself. She picked me up while I was making my way to Gargrave, and I was looking for its coop shop. Having a wife who has the same hobby make things so much easier for the training part and also the racing part. Ultra running push you through big high or big low, you know about them both when you are out there, so she talk the talk and made me realise I was doing it and just needed to not panic. 

Arrive in the Gargrave Coop just after its opening time, met two or three runners in the shop. I just wanted a hot coffee and some hot food with a couple of veggie slices. It is when I met my fellow compatriot runner Vincent #182. He couldn't work out how the Costa coffee machine was working and how did you pay for your coffee. I maybe should ask for some time reward for that 😉. Also John #125 who I will share on and off lots of trail with. We all sat outside downing a hot coffee and putting calories inside us. 

Left on my own but Vincent caught me quickly, an other runner and John. I really feel if I do this race again I need to improve my power walking. So they all disappear in the distance, not quickly but surely. 

I arrived in the village of Malham and met up with one of the media crew. He was called Jamie, and told me he knew my wife well, he met her while she was running the spine and also on the Winter Down 200. We had a quick chat and he took a few pictures while I was running. Nice to chat with someone and see that life is still happening like normal outside the race. 


 Malham 


Malham Cove was the next step and a beautiful climb. The weather was still amazing with blue sky and cold temperature. The wind in the cove was really cold so moving was the only options. Arriving at the top you have to hop on the rock formation, I only find out after I finished the race but Harry Potter was filmed at the top. Really amazing place. 


Malham Cove



A couple of miles later, I arrived in company of Vincent and John to Malham Tarn. I followed the reservoir which was frozen and arrived to the half checkpoint behind the big house. A little room with spaces for 6 or 7 runners welcomed us, only hot water, coffee and tea available. 30min maximum allowed to stay here and also access to medic. I tried to eat a dehydrated meal but my stomach wasn't really happy and I felt really sick. Without any choice but to hit the road and go back out and move forward. I put some music in my hears and got pass (again) by Vincent and John. 

The next fixture was Pen-y-Ghent. I met up with a runner call Sam Hill #176 just before we arrived to the step climb. I recognised his voice as he does a podcast which I listen. We arrived at the bottom of the climb and I had no energy, so I told him to go without me and I find a wall with some steps to step over it and I sat on the most comfortable one height wise and had a 5min Power Nap. I felt amazing after closing my eyes there. The sun was coming down but we still had a few hours of sun light and there was no cloud in the sky. Managed to climb Pen-Y-Ghent strong, up and over pretty well. Caught Sam fairly quickly and that reassured me on not feeling too bad for having a Power Nap in the day light. 

We arrive in Horton in Ribblesdale and I heard someone saying “is number 239 one of you?” I did wonder what I had done wrong for a mini second and then I recognised my mate Don parents. So good surprise and so good to see some familiar faces. His dad was a fell runner in his younger days and they welcomed us years ago in their house when we (Don, Craig and I) ran the Yorkshire three peaks marathon. I knew absolutely nothing of trail running then and we even had snow in May on one of the peak. I didn’t stay long at all with them, just a quick hello, a picture and a good tap on the back telling me I was doing great, exactly what I needed to be honest at that point  

Nightfall arrived quick and it was time to put the headtorch back on, I was around 12 to 13 miles away from Hawes CP 2 and a rest but now was the High Cam Road section and sleep deprivation came back with it. My stomach wasn’t accepting much food still and the nausea were still there. 


Night running.... Be prepare there is a lot of it


The worse bit of the course up to this point, I think being so tired and the lack of energy made it really slow going and just not that interesting. Managed to caught back up with Sam and an other runner before making it into Hawes, I could see there headtorches for a long time from a distance before I caught them. We made it to Hawes and I was so ready for a sleep and a full reset. I sat with my bag and ask to talked to a medic to hopefully sort out my nausea, while having a chat with her I had to leave her and rush to the toilet  and puke the last half day food I consumed. She gave me a pill to take after I had a shower, which would hopefully settle my tummy. I went to bed with an alarm set up for three hours later which I had properly set this time. I made the decision to hopefully get two sleep cycles and be a new man when I woke up. Lying in bed I realised my right hip was giving me grief. It was somehow pulling my quad and made really uncomfortable to lie down… not ideal if you want to sleep. I got up and took some paracetamol and went back to bed. I think I slept 1h to 1h30 in broken stages. Not the best because I felt tired but I had to get up and crack on with the task ahead. Langdon Beck is 42 miles away and it was the next target. I sort out my kit, had lots of food, this time my stomach seemed to me more settle and accepted food and top up my hydration with tea and coffee before leaving. 



CP2 Hawes To CP3 Langdon Beck 42 Miles


Left Hawes at around 2.30am feeling not too rested but much more energized than when I arrived. The night was so much hard work again and I can't remember must of it apart hallucinations were starting properly. Basically everything seem to be a person, tree trunks, posts fence and the rest, you name it, it was becoming a random supporter until I came 5 or 10 meters away.... The rest of it is a bit of a blur the only memory I have from this night is finding a little quiet spot tuck away against a wall and closed my eyes for 10 min in the little hamlet call Thwaite. The first light of day three finally came and I passed the village called Kleb where the village Hall was opened for the Spine race competitors, but I felt rested enough after my power nap so I just cracked on.

Tan Hill pub was the next fixture of the day, the highest pub in England. I called my Mrs again just before that, not feeling tiptop. She told me to get some hot food in the pub and just to close my eyes for a bit if I needed to. The snow started falling from the morning and all the bogs were covered and were hard solid with ice. Made the moving easier and quicker than sinking in deep pits. Made it to the pub delighted to finally see it in real life. I was the only one in and the volunteers were really welcoming, but it was absolutely boiling in there. They had to keep the door open, while it was freezing outside to keep it bearable even for them. I decided to have some food in the pub and I was going to shut my eyes for 15min. The food wasn’t going to be, the pub wasn’t open for food as it was 10am and the volunteers just had run out of soup. A few runners arrived shortly after I settle. I bought an expensive coffee and closed my eyes for 15min. Woke up and everyone were gone but felt like a new man and the racing part of the event left me and the adventure was somehow starting. I wasn't worry about time or miles covered but just enjoy the day.   

Tan Hill Inn Pub


Left the pub and caught a couple of runners #217 and #152. We never exchange name but we pass the halfway point underneath the A66 dual carriageway, shared a bit of the trail together and all arrived to this coffee shop/pit stop inside a barn in a farm yard 10 or so miles after Tan Hill. We all sat down and enjoyed a cut of tea and a few snack, talking and sharing our experience so far. 

A few miles past the tea room, the night came back and I passed Middleton which was the old place for the checkpoint 3 and the weather came in. Not snow anymore but sleet and wet mush, the worse weather I was anticipating as I was getting wet and it was also pretty cold. The Pennine way follow the river on this stony pass which is an other low point for me and just willing on the next CP, it was a long 8 miles. My hip was sore and I was trying to be careful on how many painkillers I was using, thinking I would need the majority I had in the second half of the course. Ran on my own, seeing afar a red light from other runners but never catching anyone or got caught. Lots of the race has been like that so far apart the odd occasion.

The checkpoint came to view and a volunteer was outside welcoming me in. It was nice to not be on ice after a full day of slippery rock, snow and iced bogs. When I arrived to the checkpoint a volunteer let me know that the race was paused because of the weather ahead in Cross fell. I arrived there a bit spent anyway and was really happy to not have to rush so I didn’t really worry about it. 

I have never been to the old checkpoint in Middleton but the one in Langdon Beck was really warm and comfy. The volunteers couldn't do enough for you again and I managed to eat straight away, grabbed my CP3 bag and went for a shower. 

I would like to share the advise Laura my wife gave me about the checkpoint bag. I had a full kit change for each checkpoint, ready into a different plastic bag mark with a black pen easy to find. Also the tip to have a shower to properly reset so the next leg feel like a new day. 

Went to bed and decided I needed another three hours sleep, working as two sleep circles and hopefully give me a proper rest. In the middle of my sleep, the fire alarm from the building went... A big red light was flashy just above my bunk bed and a really noisy alarm was buzzing. I got up and went out of the bedroom in the corridor, and nobody else followed from my room. Everybody clearly massively sleep deprived and in no rush to get out of a warm bed.  It was obviously a false alarm and I went back to sleep fairly quickly. Got up feeling a bit rested and had second serving of food or a "breakfast" before heading out. Was solo again and didn't mind it. A volunteer let me know before I headed out that there was a diversion to avoid Cauldron Snout because of the ice conditions, so I had to follow a few signs and flags which was great to keep me awake. It was really cold but I felt really comfy with the layering system I had in place.


CP3 Langdon Beck To CP4 Alston 33 Miles


I left the checkpoint feeling okay and rested at around 3.45 in the morning. The cold weather was still there and the rain had stopped but I headed out properly wrapped up. Two pairs of leggings on, two base layer tops and a mid layer plus waterproof top and bottom, hat and gloves also on. We were advise to put the Yaktrack on as there was a lot of ice.

 I left on my own but was sure someone would caught me up fairly quickly. The route went into some fields before catching up a road. After a couple of miles of it,  it dropped into open moorland joining the original route by the back of Cauldron Snout. 

The snow was deep under foot and I could easily see where the previous runners went. I caught up with #200 Ross, 7 or so miles after leaving the last checkpoint. He was fighting the sleep monsters and I was going to joined him in this seem to be national sport we were all doing during this week. Hallucinations were big and I was literally falling asleep on my feet. My head was dropping down while I was walking in the deep snow and my eyes were starting to close and I was waking up with a jerk and sometimes could see an inviting tree or an opened barn where I could go and lay down to try to stop this torture. The barns or trees were none existent and we were only in open moorland without the possibility to stop and sleep. Progress was slow but I could see in the distance day light was appearing and I knew I would be much better when the sun would be up. 


High Cup Nick at dawn


We had climb High Cup Nick and the descents was done with the first day light. What an amazing sight I had on front of me, the views were amazing and the weather seem to want to stay clear for us with a blue sky and no cloud and a great visibility. I started to run down the hill, my legs were still okay and my hip seem to have settle of this slow run/ walk rhythm. Dufton was the next target and the 1/2 checkpoint there was going to be a welcome sight. They was a coffee shop in Dufton but I decided to go straight to checkpoint instead and get a rest and a hot drink. 30 min max and the volunteers told me that Jack Scott just finished the race when I arrived there.... I am more than 100 miles behind the winner.... not like I thought I could compete with the front runners but just understanding the difference of level between me and the top of the field was amazing. He smashed the course record by 10 hours... Unbelievable... So I had a coffee, a bit of food and charged my watch and was back out there on my way to the next fixture of the race. 

Cross Fell weather station

Greg's hut

Cross Fell was next, followed by Greg's Hut. I heard a lot about Cross Fell but I didn't know what to expect. So I put some music and started the climb. It goes on for a while, way longer than I imagined, and the deep snow made it hard going, but was like the majority of the race so far, the bogs were hard solid frozen, which was still a massive bonus. I passed a weather station on top of Great Dun Fell, which had all its fences frozen solid with icicle on them. It was bitterly cold up there and I didn't hang around too long but the sun was still out and my moral was still high. Passed a few walkers when I made my way up Cross Fell last climb, they told me a few words of encouragement and it was somehow weird to see other people there. A miles down Cross Fell was Greg's Hut and the famous John Bamber and his noodle with his own made chillies sauce. What a super pit stop, and so nice to sit next to a woodburner and be given some hot food. Talked to John and the three ladies who were there, and made my way down in directions of the next checkpoint Alston. I remembered feeling great coming down, a easy track was a nice welcome after all the deep snow from Cross Fell, and I managed to run down to the road just before Alston.  

 

  Me just before going out. 

                                                                Greg's Hut Team


The journey to Alston from there is basically run on the road for 1/4 of a mile or so and you end up on a path which go through field and you have to hop walls every 300m and being parallel to the road for a few miles. I hated this section. I was still wearing my yaktracks and they were lethal on the ice covered rocks… John (number 125) passed me again and was rushing to the shop before closing time, he was properly moving and took a decent tumble on the icy path before rushing to town again. He told me later in the checkpoint he made it before closing time. 

Alston is the checkpoint with the famous veggie lasagne which I was looking forward to try. There is a race in the race as to eat as many portions of lasagne as possible. The record was standing at 8 plates and I thought as I was starving I would have a go at the record. I had five portions before going to bed and was thinking I could probably do the same when I woke up, but lasagne for breakfast wasn’t too appealing and while I was sleeping someone had 10… So I had to let that one go and was relived to be able to have more breakfast food when I woke up. I left Alston after having spend way too much time there, I think tiredness was really starting to take its tool on me and I must had done my admin at snail pace,  Heyho, just had to crack on with my journey towards Bellingham and the last CP.



CP4 Alston To CP5 Bellingham 41 MILES


One of the volunteer advise me to put my Yaktrack back on as the ice levels was still pretty high, and that would be safer. Left Alston at about 1am on my own. I could see headtorch light ahead of me in the distance and some behind me so I was aware of other people. 

After only 3 or 4 miles I took a wrong turn and had to come back onto my steps and realised then that one of my yacktrack disappeared... This annoyed me lots because they were perfect for the condition of mix ice and snow and I lost a few minutes looking for it in the middle of nowhere. The trail was going from little village to field and John caught me again. We stayed together for a few miles and he pushed on and left me behind as a same daily routine. Which was absolutely fine, you cannot match someone else pace for a so long journey. The night was dragging on again and hallucinations were back, no trees or barns this time but more I could hear a voice behind me. Like someone catching me up and just saying "Hey", at first I got spooked by it and after I got used to it, and even laughing about it. 

I could see I was catching an other runner and I still could see John light not too far ahead. We were going through open moorland followed by fields and more moorland, the sunrise couldn't come quick enough, as everything to be so much easier with some day light. I caught up with Ross (#200) and we made our way to the Greenhead car park and toilet block. I was certain when I left Alston I was told that they will be a safety team there with hot water, but they were nobody here and only cold water in the toilet. I unfreeze one of my waterbottle and had something to eat before carrying on towards Hadrian wall. My wife called me when she was running the winter spine at this point in 2022 and she was having a really tough time, Hadrian wall goes on for a bit but because the sun was up, the day was glorious again so I put a few tunes in my ears and followed the wall for the 8 or 9 miles. I could see John in the distance, he was talking to someone, I can't lie a glimmer of hope of a hot drink came and disappeared as quickly when I arrived where this man was standing. I cannot remember his name, I just remember him telling me the fact he drove a long way (if my memory is right) to just meet the runners of the spine race and give a few of us a pat in the back. What a boost that was, short lived but still a boost, I just wanted a coffee really. 


Hadrian Wall 


Met the media crew, the same one I had meet a few times during the race, Jamie and his girlfriend, they took a few pictures and asked me how I was doing, he also asked me what I wanted in Kirk Yetholm when I finish, a pint came to my mind and he promised me that if he was there he would buy me one, something more to look forward to finish. Coming to the end of the wall there was a sign for a small diversion of where the sycamore tree used to sit. So gutted it isn't here anymore and by the stupid action of one man.... idiot really. My Mrs ran the summer spine last year and the drone shots when she passed the tree were amazing... No choice but to carry on, and soon turn left going north and going through the pine forest, following forest tracks and marsh. He had been a long day, as we passed no shop or places where we could grab some sort of drink and shelter from the cold or the wind. Coming up was the pitstop as it is called, a lady call Ellen open a side building where there is a single bed, a few chairs and some hot soup and coffee or tea. A safety team was there too and this stop was really welcome after 30 + miles since I left Alston. 


The Pitstop, so welcomed. 


 I met up with John who was there when I arrived and Ross and Kerry #254 joined us not too long after. 20 min or so stop and I was on my way off to Bellingham and some needed proper rest. The Pennine way goes through farm land, so many fields and I remember a river crossing also but with a bridge close by. I covered the 6 or 7 miles to Bellimgham with ease and was looking forward for more hot food. Made it there by 4.30pm and was told straight away that the water pipe going to the shower was frozen, so no shower for me on that night. The CP is in the village hall, you enter into a room where there is a bar with lots of food and hot drinks facilities. The volunteers gave me a seat and gave me my bag, a hot drink and some hot food. I ate lots of food and half pack my bag before going into the big hall next door to try for a sleep. By far the worse CP to sleep in and you have to use your own sleeping mat but I managed to shut my eyes for a couple of hours. When I got up, I just couldn't folded my mat to put it back in its packing bag. So not awake at all a volunteer took pity of me and did it for me. I had more food and an other coffee, packed my CP bag for the last time, had my backpack check one more time before I head into the night for the last leg of the race and to the finish.




CP5 Bellingham to Kirk Yetholm 45 Miles


Left the CP at 10.30pm and was ready for the last leg. Reality hit a bit that the end was in sight and the adventure was nearly over. I had mix feeling, because I wanted to finish, see my wife and the kids and also touch the wall at the Border Hotel but the journey was coming to an end and the back to "normal life" with real issues was coming back in play. I didn't linger on that thought too long and pushed on with the job ahead. I told John yesterday I had lost one of my Yaktrack and he kindly lend me a pair of his spare one so I could comfortably pass kit check and wear them if the ice was bad again, proper ultra running community vibe on that one. Thanks again John. He left the CP 15min or so before me because I just couldn't sort myself quickly enough and I didn't know yet but it was the last time I was going to share the trail with him, maybe not so much of a bad thing he must have overtaking me at least 10 times during the full race. Proper quick shuffle.

The Pennine way leave Bellingham by the road and went left onto some open moor. It was bitterly cold and I started to not move really well, feeling a bit sick and my mate "Hey" was back. The sleep monsters were there but I was shuffling okay, but I could feel my core was getting cold. A safety team was at one of the road crossing, It felt nice to speak to them and they were just checking how we were all getting on. I don't think I mentioned I was starting to feel pretty sick and after 1/2 miles I left them all my breakfast came out, I felt my core was cold and I needed to move quicker or put an extra layer to fight the cold temperature. I didn't panic and decided it was a full reset for the day ahead. I managed to eat nearly straight away to make sure my energy level stay to an okay level, maybe not enough but with the cold nothing I had was appealing. I left the open moorland and arrived in the wood, starting by following a fire track and then in the wood, I got lost a couple of time and got pretty annoyed with the gpx trace, but worked it out and couldn't wait to arrive in Byrness. Passed the little chapel at the entrance of Byrness which is always open for spine runners, more about it in a bit.

The CP in Byrness is a 1/2 one so only 30 min allowed there. I arrived in a really warm house and a full plate of food was put on front of me. I still felt so so and I did asked the medic for a nausea pills. The plate of veggie mince and mash potatoes wasn't appealing at all but I knew I had to eat. I asked if I could sleep for 5min and the volunteers told me the only thing I had to worry was that I had to be gone by 30min since I arrived. They told me I had 26 min or so, so I decided to put a 5min alarm on my phone and just fell asleep. Woke up and felt straight away better, stomach felt settle and I ate 3/4 food the volunteers gave me. Faffed a bit and was asked to leave as my time was coming to 30min. I asked them about the little chapel which was opened for the spiner just a 1/4 of miles before the CP and the volunteers only told me to get in touch with HQ to let them know if I was going to put my head down there. Left the CP and passed Kerry and Ross who seemed to be suffering with the sleep monsters. Told them about the chapel and said I was going in for a nap. 



The little chapel, lovely sleep



The chapel wasn't a three stars B and B but it was a dry, a bit cold to not say freezing but wind free place. Three runners were there sleeping, it was Kendra #269, Sophie #197, and John Boothman #119. I crossed theirs paths more at checkpoints and they always been ahead of me by a few hours.

 I find a big cushion from one of the seat and put it on the ground, grabbed my sleeping bag, set an alarm and decided an hour was what I needed to shake my tummy ache. 

I woke up feeling pretty groggy, I managed to sleep on and off, but slept but also woke up frozen. The church wasn't heated at all. Ross and Kerry came in after their trip to the Byrness checkpoint. I packed my sleeping bag and put the kettle on for a strong coffee. Put an extra layer as the weather was suppose to be very cold on the Cheviot and headed out crossing the road and up the hill in the forest. 



  Cheviot Sunrise



The sun was rising and I actually felt pretty strong going up. I was welcome with an amazing sunrise at the top of the climb. The wind was strong and it was bitterly cold but I felt comfy and warm. I started to run like I hadn't for a while and just loved it. The Cheviot was welcoming me in and I think I could start to smell the finish line. I caught up a with Kendra, Sophie and John, it was promising that I managed to caught them up quite quickly. I spoke to John who was suffering from a bad back and a strong lean, he told me he should have stopped miles ago but thought he was going to tough it up and finish the race. His spirit was good and I bounced on that quick chat and moved forward deeper in the Cheviot. I had recce this section of the race a few years back but couldn’t remember how far was the first Hut. There is two huts which are life saving shelters in the middle of the wilderness, it is basically a big shed a bit bigger than the one you get for your garden but they are a good break out of the wind and any bad weather you can imagine. A safety team was there and offered me a coffee. An another runner #115 Fernando was in the hut when I arrived and was getting ready to leave. It was so nice to have a quick break, a chat and a warm drink. I ate something quickly and was on my way. I cracked on while still feeling pretty good on my way towards Hut 2 and the next/last mini stop. I think the distance between the two Huts is around 8 miles but it is a bit of a blur to be honest.  I overtook Fernando who was leaving Hut 1 when I arrived there and I could properly smell the finish now.  Hut 2 is like Hut 1, I could see it from afar when coming down a really icy hill. A safety volunteer met me and told me I seemed to be moving really well. I felt like everything was made for me to go and touch the wall. It was still bitterly cold with a strong wind, but the sun was shining and I only had seven miles to complete the Spine. 


Hut 2 in the distance



Quick stop again, another coffee and I was on my way towards the last climb of the race the Shil. The wind was really strong and I had to dig out my goggle one more time to protect my eyes. My mate "hey" the hallucination was still there and I turned around a few times to check that no one was here to double check that this voice were clearly my imagination, I even smiled about it. 


Somewhere in the Cheviot



The promise 4,5 miles downhill to the finish was amazing. I felt a bit emotional with the idea that I was going to complete one of my dream race. Met a volunteer when I hit the road, who congratulated me and now I knew it was all real and the village green was just around the corner. Saw my wife on the other side of the road, ran under the finisher arch and touch the wall of the border hotel. My wife hugged me tight and a few tears came down again. Our friend Wiebke (who finished the race a couple of year ago) made the trip down from Glasgow to celebrate the finish with me which felt amazing. Jamie the photograph was there and asked me what I wanted to drink as he promised me 70 miles or so ago the last time I saw him at Hadrian's Wall. I can't lie, I didn't have a full on beer but I had a shandy and it tasted absolutely amazing. The damage report on my body wasn't too bad, sore right hip, super tight right quad, both achilles sore and of course my old knackered knees but apart that all okay.

One thing I only realised when I went back to work a few days after the finish was the amount of weight I had lost, around a stone I think and I ate everything I could find for a month after. So I caught back up nicely. 


 Sorry to have took so long to describe my journey. I would like to thanks all the volunteers, they can't do enough for you and are absolutely legends without them the race would be a different experience completely. I would like to thanks also all the people who followed my dot and send me messages during and after the race, they all gave me a proper boost when I had time to read them. Last but not least, I would like to thank my wife for the constant belief in me and the lift to the start and from the finish back home. 

                                                                                                                              

 _Kit Used

There isn't many ways to say it but this race costs a fair bit of money, and the entry fees is one things but there is also all the mandatory kit and you will need to add a few bits which would be personal to each runner. 

I got myself a Montane Gecko 20ltr running vest and I learned to love it, it became my life saver and was great to carry all what I needed. 

Montane Spine rain jacket, and Montane waterproof trouser ( the heavy duty one), I had also a Inov8 lighter waterproof jacket and trouser. 

Lots of gloves, 4 waterproof pairs and two thin layer one.

Waterproof warm hats x 4

Dexshell Waterproof socks and Sealskin enough to have a fresh pair for each checkpoint. The medics stopped looking after your blisters apart for the most serious case. So foot management was a really important part of my admin at each checkpoint stop. Suffered with a few blisters but nothing major and I didn't use any K tape on my feet which was a bonus.  

Started the race wearing the Hoka mafate and I never changed shoes during the race. I had a spare pair half size bigger in case my feet became massive but never needed them as I never swelled up. 

Leggings that is a personal point, I had a pair spare for each checkpoint but as the weather was so dry and just cold I didn't use them all. 

Base layer is as above. I personally run hot, but was glad to have the flexibility to put an extra layer on if I wanted to. On a wet year, I would have used most of my kit I think. 

Mid layer I had a Inov8 Primaloft jacket which was perfect from the first night onward and I also got a second one from Montane and I wear both of them while I was in the Cheviot as it was so cold and I think my body was depleted.

Watch Garmin Fenix 6 Pro. Did the job, I put the setting as best gps as I could and removed any fixture which I wouldn't need (heartrate, Bluetooth, etc). Also when the navigation was easy I switched to normal data instead of navigation screen.  

My poles were the Black Diamond Distance Z Trekking


_Charity run For Tom

One of my dearest friend and colleague passed away late last year, he was called Tom. He was diagnosed with bowel cancer in January 2023 and he lost his battle against cancer in late November at the age of 40 years old. I bored him so many times with my running stories and adventures and he always had time to listen to them. We shared a few commute run to work together and he even dragged me into some spinning classes, cycling was more his thing. He was such an inspirational and brave man even with the knowledge he was going to die. I have never done a fundraiser for any event I took part in, but I felt he deserved I do that for him. He used a charity called Lifeline South West which provide weekend get away for people suffering from cancer and their family and it felt just right to try to fundraise as much money as possible. So that reinforced my WHY and gave me something to run for when everything was hurting and was hard going. This run was for him and his memory. I spoke to him when everything seemed to go wrong and he was always in my mind. So long my dear friend. 


_ Lessons learned and advise 

What lessons I learned by taking part and finishing a race like the Spine, well a few. The first one is making sure you are ready to start this beast, and by that I mean make sure you have a bit of experience in Ultra distance. Everything will be thrown at you and it is going to be tough at some points. Also know your Why, as your mind will be as challenge as your body. 

The second one which I was made aware by my wife of it before starting the race, is don't be scared to have a full reset at any CP and don't give up before you had a sleep, some food and a rest. 

Third one is don't underestimate sleep deprivation, I didn't know how I would be able to cope with it and the answer is not great. Spend a lot of time fighting it and also in checkpoint to try to recover enough. I think next time I might be more prepare for it with the experience I learned during the race. 

Fourth is foot management but that isn't a secret. I spend a lot of time on my feet and looking after them help me finish. 

Fifth, I realised that I raced for a couple of days and then I had an adventure, and the results was only a secondary things which I didn't worry about.  The journey is as fulfilling as finishing. 

Sixth is take the time to digest the achievement and don't rush into a big decision, as like signing for next year edition. I really want to do it again but I want to make sure I have the proper desire to put myself through it again. 




















Sunday, 13 February 2022

Arc of Attrition 50

An other weekend down in Cornwall to be part of the run fest Mudcrew organise every January. 

This time it was for the 50 miler, so the start was on the Saturday morning from the Minack theatre all the way to Porthtowan using the south west coast path. 

The day started pretty early, I decided to leave on Saturday morning from home instead of staying the night close by. So 2.45am alarm time and with my wife Laura  for crew, we were on our way to the Eco park in Porthtowan where the finish and registration was. 

Nice to see a few familiar faces and getting my race number. 



Eco Park early in the morning




Sat in the car for a late breakfast and wait in the warmth for the buses to take us to the start. At 6.25am we could hear someone shouting in the eco park car park, so I got out of the car and a Mudcrew marshall asked me if I was running the arc 50 because the buses were leaving, 20min earlier than plan..?! No idea why, but I grabbed my running vest and ran to the buses joined by a couple of other runners. 

I love the bus journey because I put my head down and just sleep for a bit. I think I managed nearly 30min and that felt great after the early start. 



Minack Theatre



We arrived in Minack theatre low car park and walked up the hill to the theatre. I met Laura there who decided to come to the start and cheer me on. 

The wind was blowing but the weather was cloudy but dry,  not as cold as I ever experiment it before. 

We made our way to the Minack theatre and met Charlie Ramsdale. She is part of the Mudcrew Ultra team as is Laura so the chit chat was flowing and I have to be honest I wasn’t feeling the fact I was going to run 50 miles. 

We went inside and I left Laura, the start is right down the middle of the theatre. Amazing view and caught up with Joanna Turner. Nice to be with a familiar face and just relax before the race start. 

At 8.30am the blue flares were lit, the horn buzzed, the music was going (Led Zeppelin) and Stephen Cousins was sending us on our way. It is congestion time a bit and I used a side alley because I didn’t want to be stuck too much in the back of the pack. I had no idea where I would come if I finish but the idea to not be able to pass and get bottle neck on the coast path didn’t fill me with joy. 

I decided to start at a pace I would keep for a long time, so not crazy fast and effort at 5/6 ish I would say. 

So we all get out of the theatre, ran across the car park, pass a small gate and straight onto the coast path. Rocky, muddy up and down. Be ready for a lots of miles like that. I do like this sort of terrain I have to admit. 



Land's End



The first few miles went pretty quickly and in the distance appeared the Land’s End Hotel, I decided to not have my wife there but instead in Sennen, a mile + down the road. Easier access and cheaper car park also. I didn’t need anything, just the moral booster and removed my waterproof jacket. It was warmer than I expected. 

Off I went with only seconds spend with Laura. I was still running with few people at that time and we all made our way to Cape Cornwall. The coast path become at some point from here a bit more scrambling with big boulders to go up and down from. 



Happy life for the dogs crewing with Laura




Cape Cornwall, arrived pretty quickly, 11 miles in the race, I ran with an other runner  for a bit(sorry I don’t know your name) and we discussed race goal, experience and the rest. I think it is the first time I admitted I would love to run sub 11hr on the course. Felt pretty good at that point. Laura was in the car park. Filled bottle (Tailwind and water) ,fuelled (Rice pudding and coke) and was on my way. 


Pendeen light house was only five miles away and came quite quickly. Laura was parked in the tiny car park. Quick food top up and I was on my way. Now was the crappier section from the race. 13 long technical miles. I know that section pretty well by running it when I ran the 100 a few years ago and the recce. I attacked it harder on fresher legs and had a blast to be honest. Met my Mrs at the half way point next to Zennor and I was absolutely loving my time on the trail. The weather was really kind, cracking views and lush trail with my fairly strong legs at the time. 

Lots of people was there waiting for their runner, top up water and tailwind (ran out of fluids at the time..) eat some custard and drank some coke and crack on towards St Ives 6 miles away. 

Zennor 



The journey to St Ives after Zennor doesn’t improve really. Still hard going and pretty up down. You pass headlands and go back inland a few time and pray the next headland will revel St Ives. 

Laura was in the first car park arriving into St Ives. I decided to change shoes (giving up grip for comfort) T-shirt, buff. Refuel as much as I could even if food and especially gels started to not go down so well. 30 miles done and now the trail was using a fair bit of road passing Hayle and all the way to the dunes of doom. I didn’t stop to the only checkpoint of the race which was in the middle of St Ives. Just had to put my head through the doors and say Hi. I have bad memories of this checkpoint on the 100. I nearly pass out for the two years I ran the 100 and had to look at the ceiling for nearly 45 min each time. Glad to just be in and out this time. 


St Ives




Hit the road/trail out of St Ives and I had a one of my recurring problem starting… “cramping” argh. A bit annoyed with it because I look after my salt and electrolyte intake but clearly wasn’t enough. I find myself lying on the floor on the trail with a man walking by asking me if I was okay. My right inner quad muscle didn’t like the steps anymore and I knew too well how many up and down with tall steps were coming. A runner passed me and gave me a tip to stretch that muscle and told me he had exactly the same problem. I managed to move again and he left me for dead… not great to be pass so easily at a later stage of the race but he clearly felt great and I wondered if I had gone too hard from the start. Doubt entered my mind a bit but the easier running made the few miles going to Hayle tic by nicely. The 100 mile race start on the Friday at midday while the 50 start at 8.30 the next morning, so just before St Ives I started to caught some 100 miler competitors. Some were struggling but everyone I met were still moving forward. Hayle beach car park, not too happy 



Arrived in Hayle beach car park and met Laura. Heart rate was high and felt I was working hard and was generally struggling in the same time. Food was starting to not go in, really well. Had a proper moan to Laura, some food and grabbed my poles to helped my tired legs. The dunes of doom aren’t that bad to be honest. Soft under foot and all runnable. Ran with a few people including the first two ladies. I felt I was the weakest runner of the group I ran with. My legs, head and stomach weren’t playing ball and the next crew point couldn’t arrive quick enough. It was 5 or so miles before arriving into Godrevy car park. 



Godrevy 




I met Laura in the car park and it was  buzzing of spectators and crews. Topped up water and tailwind and decided it was time for some music to help me out. I was starting to properly flag and any help was a must. Got out my head-torch also. Light was fading quickly. 

I left the car park and realised the mist was coming down and temperatures were dropping, so I stopped and put my waterproof jacket. Felt a bit unorganised because I could see all the people I ran with in the dune disappearing in the distance. 

The north cliff trail were fairly dry and really runnable. Unfortunately my stomach was letting me down and I started to slow and felt really sick. 

I meant Laura after a couple of miles and she gave me some coke to try to top up my energy levels. After 300m everything came back out… in some way I felt a bit better. At that point I barely ate anything until the end.

This section is a bit of a blur all the way to Portreath. I only remember the two big up and down with the high steps. The Portreath lights was a nice sight and going through the town was my priority and pushing to the finish. Laura was there and I only waved and told her I would see her at the finish. 

The last section to Porthtowan is brutal, it has an other sections with two big up and down and big steps, maybe the last thing you need at that point. The path becomes hard under foot all the way to Porthtowan. Coming down the road into the village felt great and at that point you have an escort or marshals who push you to the next marshall standing at a road junction or the last massive (WTF) hill to climb back to the Eco park and the finish. 

Crossing the finish line felt amazing. It is one of my best race for the last two years, my legs felt solid for most of the race and I managed to run solid. My food intake worked alright for 40 plus miles and the salt and electrolytes intake nearly left me cramp free, nearly still have to work on that cramps issues. I managed to go round in 10hours and 31 min which was my target, so well happy of the final results. When I finally stopped and sat down in the finish section of the Eco park, I started to not feel that great and then decided to lie on the ground to stop me passing out. Not hours on end but an easy 15 min to recover from the effort I pushed my body to. The lack of food for the last 10 or so miles showed at that point. 

                                           



Finished and feeling queasy


All in all, the Arc 50 is a lush race. Lots to see, the scenery is breath taking, the organisation is fault less with great support all the way even if you haven’t got a crew. I would recommend it to anyone who worry to go for the 100 and the event coverage is amazing with Facebook feed and live coverage. 


Finished and clearly happy 


 Laura and I having a quick chat on the live feed before driving back home